Anti-ageing skin cosmetic

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a cosmetic based on various natural raw materials, which can be used to counter ageing processes of the human skin. The inventive cosmetic contains 0.1-5% by weight of an extract from a mixture of fig leaves and fruits, 0.1-3% by weight of an extract from pomegranate fruits, 0.001-0.5% by weight of a ground dry mixture of rosemary stems and leaves, 0.01-3% by weight of liposomes containing an extract from peeled musk melons, 0.1-5% by weight of liposomes containing a plankton extract containing the photolyase enzyme, 0.1-5% by weight of liposomes containing 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, in relation to the liposome weight, of a micrococcus lysate containing the UV-endonuclease enzyme; and up to 100% by weight, other active substances, carrier substances, adjuvants or mixtures thereof.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a national stage of PCT/DE2003/002157 filed 23 Jun.2003 and based upon DE 102 31 468.3 filed 8 Jul. 2002 under theInternational Convention.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to a cosmetic based on various natural rawmaterials, which can be used to counter ageing processes of the humanskin.

2. Related Art of the Invention

From the state of the art, numerous cosmetics are known which in someway contain plant-based raw materials in the form of oils or extracts.In most cases, the known advantageous effects of individual plants areused to achieve a corresponding overall effect. The effect of rosemary,provided as an oil or an extract from the leaves and sometimes combinedwith other plant extracts, is e.g. used quite frequently to includeantispasmodic and circulation-stimulating properties. Maritime cosmeticsoften contain algae extracts. For example, WO98/26755 describes apreparation which contains extracts from the Laminaria saccharina alga,root extracts from Lilium candidum and extracts from Glycyrrhyza glabraand achieves a particular skin-cleansing effect. Rosemary extract isused in WO 00/41674 to counter skin ageing.

The object of the invention is to provide an improved cosmetic with aview to skin ageing.

Another object is to develop a cosmetic which at the same time has animproved moisturizing effect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

According to the invention, an anti-ageing skin cosmetic is thereforeprovided containing

-   -   0.1 to 5% by weight of an extract from a mixture of fig leaves        and fruits;    -   0.1 to 3% by weight of an extract from pomegranate fruits;    -   0.001 to 0.5% by weight of a ground dry mixture of rosemary        stems and leaves;    -   0.01 to 3% by weight of liposomes containing an extract from        peeled musk melons;    -   0.1 to 5% by weight of liposomes containing a plankton extract        containing the photolyase enzyme;    -   0.1 to 5% by weight of liposomes containing 0.1 to 0.5% by        weight, in relation to the liposome weight, of a micrococcus        lysate containing the UV-endonuclease enzyme; and    -   up to 100% by weight, other active substances, carrier        substances, adjuvants or mixtures thereof,        all percentages being relative to the cosmetic's total weight.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The fig extract used is an extract consisting of a mixture of leaves andfruits of the Ficus carica fig, wherein the two constituents can becontained in a ratio of 25-75:75-25. Said extract is a cold extract(extraction temperature 10-30° C.) obtained with the aid of awater/propylene glycol extractant. The extract contains effectiveamounts of the proteolytic ficin enzyme and contributes to cellregeneration.

The pomegranate extract obtained from Punica granatum is an extractbased on water and propylene glycol and stimulates microcirculation inthe skin.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is not used in the known form of anextract or oil, but as a ground dry mixture of stems and leaves. Such amixture surprisingly has a high free-radical-scavenging activity andtherefore a very high radical protection factor (RPF).

The extract from the musk melon Cucumis melo, which is obtained frommelons whose outer peel has been removed, using water at a temperatureof 10-30° C., helps to reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) andis advantageously incorporated in the cosmetic via liposomes whose outershell consists of phospholipids and olive oil. This special liposomeform noticeably improves the cosmetic's texture.

The plankton extract incorporated via liposomes is e.g. obtained fromcyanobacteria of the Anacystes nidulans genus and contains an effectiveamount of the photolyase enzyme. In the presence of daylight, thisenzyme contributes to the decomposition of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimerswhich have been produced due to UV radiation, thus achieving a repaireffect for the skin.

It is particularly advantageous that the plankton extract beencapsulated in special liposomes made up of three types ofphospholipids: phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidyl-choline/oleic acidand cholesteryl hemisuccinate. Such liposomes have a great penetrationforce in keratinocytes and release their contents suddenly when the pHvalue is reduced, e.g. from pH 6 to pH 4. A preferred product containingsaid plankton extract is Photosomes® from Barnet Products Corp., NJ/USA.

A micrococcus lysate containing the UV-endonuclease enzyme, which haslong-lasting skin repair effects, is also incorporated via liposomes.These liposomes can be embodied in the same advantageous mannerdescribed for the plankton extract. A preferred product is Ultrasomes®from Barnet Products Corp., NJ/USA.

The anti-ageing skin effect to be expected from the inventiveanti-ageing skin cosmetic due to some of its constituents is by farexceeded by an overall synergetic effect. In addition, the cosmeticachieves an excellent moisture replenishment in the skin which could notbe expected from the basic constituents alone.

The inventive cosmetic further contains cosmetic adjuvants and carriersubstances as they are commonly used in such preparations, e.g. water,preservatives, colourants, pigments having a colouring effect,thickeners, fragrances, alcohols, polyols, electrolytes, gel-formingagents, oils, polymers, co-polymers, emulsifiers, waxes, stabilizers.

Suitable gel-forming agents include carbomer, xanthan gum, carrageenan,acacia gum, guar gum, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, quaternised cellulose, quaternisedguar, certain polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone,montmorillonite. Carbomer and hydroxyethyl cellulose are preferred.

The waxes can be selected from among natural plant-based waxes, animalwaxes, natural and synthetic mineral waxes and synthetic waxes. Theseinclude e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite, beeswax, montanwax, wool wax, ceresin, microwaxes, hard paraffin, petrolatum, siliconewax, polyethylene glycol waxes or polyethylene glycol ester waxes.Low-viscosity silicone waxes whose viscosities range up to approx. 1,000Pa·s are preferred.

Moisturizers used can be glycerine, butylene glycol, propylene glycoland mixtures thereof. Glycerine is preferred.

Further, it is advantageous to add suitable water- and/or oil-solubleUVA or UVB filters or both to the inventive compositions. Advantageousoil-soluble UVB filters include derivatives of 4-aminobenzoic acid suchas 4-(dimethyl-amino)benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; esters ofcinnamic acid such as 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester;benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as 3-benzylidene camphor.

Preferred oil-soluble UV filters are Benzophenone-3, ButylMethoxybenzoylmethane, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Octyl Salicylate,4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Homosalate, and Octyl Di-methyl PABA.

Water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. sulphonic acid derivatives ofbenzophenone or of 3-benzylidene camphor, or salts such as the Na or Ksalt of 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulphonic acid.

UVA filters include derivatives of dibenzoylmethane such as1-phenyl-4-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione.

It is preferred that 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone-5-sulphonic acid(Benzophenone-4) be used as a water- and alcohol-soluble broad spectrumfilter in amounts ranging between 0.1 and 0.5% by weight.

The inventive cosmetic can also contain monovalent and/or polyvalentalcohols, such as ethanol, propylene glycol, di-propylene glycol,ethylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycols, sorbitol andmixtures thereof. Advantageously, the alkanol and/or polyol are/iscontained in amounts ranging between 5 and 20% by weight.

The oils used for the invention can be usual cosmetic oils with lowviscosities, such as jojoba oil and silicone oils up to approx. 1,000Pa·s.

The cosmetic can contain colourants or pigments, pigment mixtures orpowders having a pigment-like effect. Pigments can include e.g. ironoxides, natural aluminosilicates such as ochre, titanium (di)oxide,mica, kaolin, clays containing manganese such as umber and red bole,calcium carbonate, talc, mica-titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide-ironoxide, nylon globules, ceramic globules, expanded and non-expandedsynthetic polymer powders, powdery natural organic compounds such asground solid algae, ground plant parts, encapsulated andnon-encapsulated cereal starch.

Further active substances contained can be antioxidants and scavengers.Such substances include vitamins such as vitamin C and derivativesthereof, e.g. ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbylpalmitate; vitamin A and derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivativesthereof; vitamin E and derivatives thereof such as tocopheryl acetate;flavons or flavonoids; amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine,tryptophan and derivatives thereof; carotenoids and carotenes such ase.g. α-carotene, β-carotene; uric acid and derivatives thereof;α-hydroxy acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid; stilbenesand derivatives thereof.

A particularly preferred active substance is an active formulationcontaining (a) a product obtained by extracting the bark of Quebrachoblanco and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis, which product contains atleast 90% by weight proanthocyanidine oligomers and max. 10% by weightgallic acid, (a), whose active substance concentration is 2% by weight,bound to microcapsules, being contained in an amount ranging between 0.1and 10% by weight; (b) a silkworm extract obtained by extraction, whichextract contains the cecropine peptide, amino acids and a vitaminmixture, (b) being contained in an amount ranging between 0.1 and 10% byweight; (c) a non-ionic, cationic or anionic hydro-gel or hydrogelmixture, (c) being contained in an amount ranging between 0.1 and 5% byweight; wherein the active substances (a) and (b) form an associationcomplex together with the gel (c) and one or several phospholipid(s)contained in an amount between 0.1 and 30% by weight and with water, andeach of the aforesaid percentages is in relation to the total weight ofthe active formulation.

In a preferred embodiment, the anti-ageing skin cosmetic consists of

-   -   0.1 to 1% by weight of an extract from fig leaves and fruits;    -   0.1 to 1% by weight of an extract from pomegranate fruits;    -   0.001 to 0.1% by weight of a ground dry mixture of rosemary        stems and leaves;    -   0.01 to 1% by weight of an extract from peeled musk melons;    -   0.1 to 1% by weight of liposomes containing a plankton extract        containing the photolyase enzyme;    -   0.1 to 1% by weight of liposomes containing 0.1 to 0.5% by        weight, in relation to the liposome weight, of a micrococcus        lysate containing the UV-endonuclease enzyme;    -   60 to 80% by weight water;    -   0.1 to 1% by weight of a silicone wax;    -   0.3 to 0.7% by weight of a preservative or preservative mixture;    -   0.01 to 0.5% by weight Na-EDTA (Tetrasodium Ethylenediamine        Tetraacetic Acid);    -   1 to 10% by weight Butane Diol 1.3/1,3 Butylene Glycol U-Pur;    -   0.1 to 0.5% by weight Carbomer;    -   0.1 to 0.5% by weight Hydroxyethyl Cellulose;    -   0.1 to 0.5% by weight Triethanolamine;    -   0.1 to 1% by weight Xanthan Gum;    -   1 to 5% by weight Glycerine;    -   1 to 15% by weight Ethanol;    -   0.1 to 0.5% by weight of an active formulation containing (a) a        product obtained by extracting the bark of Quebracho blanco and        subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis, which product contains at least        90% by weight proanthocyanidine oligomers and max. 10% by weight        gallic acid, (a), whose active substance concentration is 2% by        weight, bound to micro-capsules, being contained in an amount        ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight; (b) a silkworm extract        obtained by extraction, which extract contains the cecropine        peptide, amino acids and a vitamin mixture, (b) being contained        in an amount ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight; (c) a        non-ionic, cationic or anionic hydro-gel or hydrogel        mixture, (c) being contained in an amount ranging between 0.1        and 5% by weight; wherein the active substances (a) and (b) form        an association complex together with the gel (c) and one or        several phospholipid(s) contained in an amount between 0.1 and        30% by weight and with water, and each of the aforesaid        percentages is in relation to the total weight of the active        formulation;    -   0.2 to 0.5% by weight PEG 40;    -   0.1 to 0.5% by weight Benzophenone-4; and optionally 0.1 to 1%        by weight of colourant and perfume respectively,        all percentages being relative to the total weight of the        cosmetic complex unless indicated otherwise.

Overall, the preferred embodiment has a very good anti-ageing effect,which could be proved by means of comparative tests. It also has anexcellent moisturizing effect according to corneometer measurementscarried out.

The radical protection factor of the inventive cosmetic ranges between40 and 100×10¹⁴ radicals/mg. The radical protection factor (RPF) definesthe free-radical-scavenging activity by means of an antioxidant comparedto a test substance. The measurement was carried out as described in WO99/66881.

The invention will now be explained in more detail by means of examples.All quantities are in percent by weight unless indicated otherwise.

Example 1 Facial Serum I

Water q.s. ad 100 Silicone wax 0.5 Preservative 0.5 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1Butane Diol 1.3/Butylene Glycol U-Pur 5.0 Carbomer 0.2 HydroxyethylCellulose 0.2 Triethanolamine 0.2 Xanthan Gum 0.6 Glycerine 1.5 Ethanol10.0 Fig extract 0.5 Pomegranate extract 0.5 Active formulation* 0.1Rosemary powder 0.001 Melon liposomes 0.1 Perfume 0.1 PEG 40 0.3Colourant q.s. Plankton liposomes (Photosomes) 0.1 Lysate liposomes(Ultrasomes) 0.1 Benzophenone-4 0.1 *containing Quebracho blanco (2%),silkworm extract (1%), dry gel (1%), phospholipids (7%) and water (89%);prepared as described in WO99/66881, Example 1.

The serum was prepared at 45° C. Wax was added into the heated water andstirred. Carbomer was then added, stirred thoroughly and neutralized.Subsequently, the remaining raw materials were added at room temperaturewhile stirring. Finally, the mixture was homogenized. The serum's RPFwas 67.

Example 2 Facial Serum II

Water q.s. ad 100 Silicone wax 0.9 Preservative 0.3 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.2Butane Diol 1.3/Butylene Glycol U-Pur 7.0 Carbomer 0.3 HydroxyethylCellulose 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.3 Xanthan Gum 0.5 Glycerine 1.0 Ethanol5.0 Fig extract 1.0 Pomegranate extract 1.5 Active formulation* 0.5Rosemary powder 0.01 Melon liposomes 2.0 Perfume 0.01 PEG 40 0.1Colourant q.s. Plankton liposomes (Photosomes) 0.5 Lysate liposomes(Ultrasomes) 0.5 Benzophenone-4 0.2 Silicone 2.0 *containing Quebrachoblanco (2%), silkworm extract (1%), dry gel (1%), phospholipids (7%) andwater (89%); prepared as described in WO99/66881, Example 1. The lotionwas prepared as in Example 1. The serum's RPF was 69.

Example 3 Test Example

(A) Anti-Ageing Effect

Consumer tests were carried out with 150 consumers who applied the serumaccording to Example 1 to their face for four weeks and completed aquestionnaire.

Of those surveyed who had used the product regularly in the mornings andevenings (82%), 39% judged that a “noticeable result was achieved”, 32%that a “partly noticeable result was achieved” and 11% that “nonoticeable result was achieved”.

Specifically, the following results were achieved:

Increase in skin elasticity after 1 week in 77%* after 2 weeks in 87%after 3 weeks in 84% Reduction of fine lines after 1 week in 76%* after2 weeks in 81% after 3 weeks in 83% Appearance of the skin (firmness)after 1 week in 81%* after 2 weeks in 84% after 3 weeks in 84% *of thetest persons

It was particularly surprising that 96% of the test persons were able tonote an immediate effect after 1-2 days and that the effect was clearlynoticeable in a high percentage of the participants after 1 week.

A comparative test with 20 test persons who applied the serum accordingto Example 1 in the same manner, except that the serum did not containrosemary powder and pomegranate extract, showed a delayed improvementeffect and lower values:

Increase in skin elasticity after 1 week in 52%* after 2 weeks in 58%after 3 weeks in 51% Reduction of fine lines after 1 week in 33%* after2 weeks in 43% after 3 weeks in 45% Appearance of the skin (firmness)after 1 week in 45%* after 2 weeks in 53% after 3 weeks in 58% *of thetest persons

These pronounced differences suggest a synergy.

(B) Moisturizing Effect

In the context of the consumer test according to (A), the consumersassessed the moisturizing effect and graded it as follows:

-   -   little moisturizing effect    -   normal moisturizing effect    -   long-lasting moisturizing effect (>24 hours).        18% of all consumers judged that there was a “normal        moisturizing effect” and 79% that there was a “long-term        moisturizing effect”. 3% made no statement.

These results prove an excellent moisturizing effect and a very goodanti-ageing effect.

1. An anti-ageing skin cosmetic comprising: 0.1 to 5% by weight of anextract from a mixture of fig leaves and fruits; 0.1 to 3% by weight ofan extract from pomegranate fruits; 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of a grounddry mixture of rosemary stems and leaves; 0.01 to 3% by weight ofliposomes containing an extract from peeled musk melons; 0.1 to 5% byweight of liposomes containing a plankton extract containing aphotolyase enzyme; 0.1 to 5% by weight of liposomes containing 0.1 to0.5% by weight, in relation to the liposome weight, of a micrococcuslysate containing a UV-endonuclease enzyme; and up to 100% by weight,other active substances, carrier substances, adjuvants or mixturesthereof, all percentages being relative to the cosmetic's total weight.2. The anti-ageing skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein theliposomes containing the musk melon extract are made up of phospholipidsand olive oil.
 3. The anti-ageing skin cosmetic according to claim 1,wherein the plankton extract stems from the Anacystes nidulanscyanobacterium.
 4. The anti-ageing skin cosmetic according to claim 1,wherein the liposomes containing the plankton extract consist of amixture of phosphatidyl ethanol-amine, phosphatidylcholine, oleic acidand cholesteryl hemisuccinate.
 5. An anti-ageing skin cosmetic, whereinsaid cosmetic comprises 0.1 to 1% by weight of an extract from figleaves and fruits; 0.1 to 1% by weight of an extract from pomegranatefruits; 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of a ground dry mixture of rosemarystems and leaves; 0.01 to 1% by weight of an extract from peeled muskmelons; 0.1 to 1% by weight of liposomes containing a plankton extractcontaining a photolyase enzyme; 0.1 to 1% by weight of liposomescontaining 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, in relation to the liposome weight, ofa micrococcus lysate containing a UV-endonuclease enzyme; 60 to 80% byweight water; 0.1 to 1% by weight of a silicone wax; 0.3 to 0.7% byweight of a preservative or preservative mixture; 0.01 to 0.5% by weightNa-EDTA (Tetrasodium Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic Acid); 1 to 10% byweight Butane Diol 1.3/1,3 Butylene Glycol U-Pur; 0.1 to 0.5% by weightCarbomer; 0.1 to 0.5% by weight Hydroxyethyl Cellulose; 0.1 to 0.5% byweight Triethanolamine; 0.1 to 1% by weight Xanthan Gum; 1 to 5% byweight Glycerine; 1 to 15% by weight Ethanol; 0.1 to 0.5% by weight ofan active formulation containing (a) a product obtained by extracting abark of Quebracho blanco and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis, whichproduct contains at least 90% by weight proanthocyanidine oligomers andmax. 10% by weight gallic acid, (a), whose active substanceconcentration is 2% by weight, bound to micro-capsules, being containedin an amount ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight; (b) a silkwormextract obtained by extraction, which extract contains a cecropinepeptide, amino acids and a vitamin mixture, (b) being contained in anamount ranging between 0.1 and 10% by weight; (c) a non-ionic, cationicor anionic hydro-gel or hydrogel mixture, (c) being contained in anamount ranging between 0.1 and 5% by weight; wherein the activesubstances (a) and (b) form an association complex together with the gel(c) and one or several phospholipid(s) contained in an amount between0.1 and 30% by weight and with water, and each of the aforesaidpercentages is in relation to the total weight of the activeformulation; 0.2 to 0.5% by weight PEG 40; 0.1 to 0.5% by weightBenzophenone-4; optionally 0.1 to 1% by weight of colourant and perfumerespectively, all percentages being relative to the total weight of thecosmetic complex unless indicated otherwise; and up to 100% by weight,other active substances, carrier substances, adjuvants or mixturesthereof, all percentages being relative to the cosmetic's total weight.6. A method for reducing wrinkles and for prolonging the period for avisibly wrinkle-free skin, said method comprising applying to skin ananti-ageing skin cosmetic comprising: 0.1 to 5% by weight of an extractfrom a mixture of fig leaves and fruits; 0.1 to 3% by weight of anextract from pomegranate fruits; 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of a ground drymixture of rosemary stems and leaves; 0.01 to 3% by weight of liposomescontaining an extract from peeled musk melons; 0.1 to 5% by weight ofliposomes containing a plankton extract containing a photolyase enzyme;0.1 to 5% by weight of liposomes containing 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, inrelation to the liposome weight, of a micrococcus lysate containing aUV-endonuclease enzyme; and up to 100% by weight, other activesubstances, carrier substances, adjuvants or mixtures thereof, allpercentages being relative to the cosmetic's total weight.
 7. Theanti-ageing skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the extract froma mixture of fig leaves and fruits further comprises a proteolytic ficinenzyme and wherein the extract from a mixture of fig leaves and fruitshas a weight ratio of leaves-to-fruit ranging from 25:75 to 75:25. 8.The method according to claim 6, wherein the extract from a mixture offig leaves and fruits further comprises a proteolytic ficin enzyme andwherein the extract from a mixture of fig leaves and fruits has a weightratio of leaves-to-fruit ranging from 25:75 to 75:25.